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Jag tool page
This page contains pictures of some of the tools that I have built to aid me in working on the Jag. I will add additional tools as the need arises, necessity being the mother of invention.
Rear Hub Puller
The first tool that I built was a hub puller to separate the rear hubs. All that I really wanted to do was check the rear bearings, Mannn, did I pay dearly for that. I had heard that others had success by simply drilling a hole in an old knock-off and using a screw and washer to pull the hub apart. All I did was break out the center of the knock-off. So I built bigger.
This box is designed to take the thrust of the push screw.
This is the push screw that I used, it's 3/4" fine thread and was "borrowed" from a two jaw puller that I had. The nuts are just hardware store items. The little square piece welded to the nuts is to keep the nuts from turning while the screw is tightened.
This is how that part goes together.
And this is how it looks when it gets loaded into the box. From here, the whole shebang gets turned onto the hub, and when the knock-off is firmly tightened, the screw is ready to begin doing it's thing. As it turned out, it required so much torque to generate enough pressure to finally get these things to move that it nearly whipped me. I would not want to do this for money!
The next tool that I built was something to help me remove the bonnet. I needed to be able to do this by myself so an adjustable stand was what I had in mind. At this point I need to thank Jim from the Jag Lovers Forum for lots of great pictures and suggestions about his bonnet rotisserie. It helped me envision what I needed to do and gave me a feel for what it should look like.
I needed something that I could roll up to the front of the car, attach to the bonnet, and then roll the whole assembly away. Later, I will build the second half of the rotisserie and lower the bonnet from it's nose down, (storage position), to a horizontal, (rotisserie) position. But for now, this is how I am removing and storing the bonnet.
These parts will attach to the bonnet, replacing the original hinges.
These pieces, when assembled together, will allow me to adjust the height of the bonnet when it is on the stand as well as allow for rotation of the bonnet when the stand becomes a rotisserie.
Gotta have wheels
At this point, the pieces that replace the bonnet hinges have already been mounted. Now, I just have to roll the stand into position and attach it.
Wha La! Away we go.
When I got ready to start on the engine and transmission, I looked into the cost of the steel to build a gantry. I wanted to remove the engine/transmission assembly from the bottom and needed a way to raise the frame high enough to roll the engine/transmission out. What I found was the steel has become so expensive that I could buy a gantry from Harbor Freight cheaper than I could build. So I ordered one and while I waited for it to arrive, I built an engine/transmission cradle. This will allow me to store the assembly before and after the separate pieces have been rebuilt.
These will become the up-rights that attach to the side of the engine. They will attach behind the front engine mounts so that I can bolt the cradle to the engine and then, when the cradle bears on the floor, I can remove the engine mounts.
I needed a cradle to move the tub around during disassembly and reassembly of the body/frame rails and front and rear suspension. This is what I built.
The cradle started as part of another project which I no longer needed. First it was shortened.
Then wheels were added.
I build these outriggers in case the cradle wasn't stable enough once the car was mounted on it. I certainly did not want it toppling over on me while I was working on it.
And this is what it looks like once it was ready to accept the car.
IRS jack mount
Here is another little project. Back when I pulled the IRS the first time I blocked it up with 2X4s and plywood on the jack. I build this to allow me to bolt the IRS to this motorcycle jack.
And like this once the IRS is attached.
Tool to relieve torsion bar tension
Another piece of widgetry. This attaches to the top of the Picture Frame and allows me to release the front shocks.
I knew that I would need a rotisserie for the tub in order to clean and paint the underside of the tub. I built this mostly with recycled materials.
These would become the main uprights for the front and rear. They were originally used to hold logs to carry to the rehaulers when I was clearing pine to build the barn.
I made plates and attached them to the fire wall where the front frame tubes originally attached.
Next I build the upright members of the rotisserie.
The out riggers were made from new material but the wheels were from tire dollies that I had.
Next came the main support with it's rotatable bar. When mounted on the upright member it will allow me to raise and lower the car and rotate it.
Next I would need to make vertical members so I could attach the mounting struts to the tub.
This picture doesn't really show much, I just thought it looked neat with the wisps of smoke coming off the tool bit.
Here you get a better idea of what I was working on. The slots will allow for vertical adjustment of the tub mounting struts.
If you have ever mounted an engine on an engine stand only to find that it was not well balanced you will be able to appreciate the importance of being able to center the main rotating shaft along the center line of the piece you are trying to rotate. If not in line, the tub will be out of balance and very difficult, if not dangerous, to rotate. The slots will allow me to fine tune that pivot point.
The upper links (left over from another project) allow me to adjust out any flex or sag so that the tub is level.
The rear was pretty much a repeat of the front. The rear bumper mounts were used to attach the struts and the struts themselves were a little less elaborate but same principle.
And it looks like this.
When I began to rebuild the IRS I found that I needed something to compress the rear coil springs. I built this from scrap I had in the shop.
Note the big bolt through the top eye incase this somehow managed to get away.
Before I installed the engine/transmission in the frame I wanted to get it to run so that if I had any problems I could sort them. This meant I needed a run in stand so build this.
Fortunately every thing went pretty well with a few exceptions. These were much easier to deal with on the stand than they would have been once installed in the car.
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