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I am working on my '70 XKE roadster. I have reached the point where I am applying the stickers. The sticker below would normally go on the right inner fender, inside the engine compartment.
If you notice the second line, it makes reference to "exhaust port air injection".
However, my car does not have anything that I would consider "exhaust port air injection".
Does anyone know if there is another sticker available that does not make reference to the air injection?
These four pictures are of the top on my '70 XKE Jaguar. My question is, is there some kind of clip that attaches here to hold the ends of the chrome trim piece that covers the edge of the top material.
I have the clips that are similar to the clips used on the door sill chrome trip strip. These just push on. But, I cannot remember if there is any thing else that goes here at the end of the trip piece and attaches to the holes that you see here, in addition to the push on clips.
The holes in the trim piece seem to line up with the holes in the top and the holes in the top are into metal, not the wood header. I don't seem to have anything that would fit here and don't see how I would attach it if there was.
This is something that I did on one of my '06 Triumph Thruxtons and my sons '04 Bonneville.
I have solved the missing and popping problems (cold start) on two bikes by cleaning the starter enrichener circuit on the Keihin carbs. In each case the bike ran reasonably well once fully warmed up. I found that a single strand of wire from a wire brush (a trick I learned from GrandPaulz) will fit into the brass jet (#1) and clear it. Hole #2 is fairly large so is much easier to clean. To test I use an aerosol spray of some kind (carb cleaner or even WD40) with one of the long plastic nozzles to force fluid into hole #2. If the circuit is clear a nice large stream will come from the jet (#1)(and squirt you in the face if you let it). The stream you get from #1 should be nearly as large as what you get from the plastic nozzle. If it is weak, just bubbles, or is even a split spray continue to clean with your wire probe.
These are pictures of the different components of the console on my 1970 E-Type, roadster.
The first picture is of the console base.
These next two pictures are of the piece that fits on top of the console base, up and around the shift boot tower. It is made of plywood on the bottom and attached to a metal, top piece.
This next picture is of the shift boot tower and it is made of metal.
The next pictures are of the console storage box. First is of the lid and is made up of the lid finisher and the lid itself. The finisher is a kind of fiber board and the lid is made of plywood.
In the next picture is the box. It is made of metal, covered with vinyl. It is open at the bottom with a finisher piece (partially shown at the top of the picture) made from vinyl covered fiber board.
I am working on my '70 XKE Series II roadster.
Does this picture show the gasket that goes under the headlight bucket in the right place?
These are pictures of the tires from my '06 Triumph Thruxton.
The first two are Bridgestone Battle Axe BT-45
This next tire is a before shot of a Michelin Pilot Road 2
This next one is a Bridgestone Battle Axe 003.
And then an Avon AM22
It was amazing how quickly that last layer of rubber peeled off. It didn't look like this shortly before.
I am working on a '70 XKE roadster with A/C. I have a piece that I can't figure out where goes.
I have the two pieces in this picture, the one on the left is a new replacement and the one on the right is the original. The original has a slight curve and two mounting screw holes.
I think it goes on the left side, under the dash/steering wheel shaft but, unfortunately, I did not take a picture of it so, I don't know where it goes. One possible place is here but I don't see a good place to mount it. I see the one metal tab which, with the addition of a clip for a sheet metal screw to screw into, would accept one mounting screw but can't see anything else to accept the other screw.
Or, do I have it in the wrong place?
These are pictures of the exhaust mounting on my '69 and '71 Triumph Bonneville.
Note the double nut on the engine case cross bolt which is longer than the other bolts of it's size to allow for the "L" bracket to be attached. The inner nut is slightly thinner than a standard nut but there probably is room for a standard nut to be used there if a thin one is not available.
This is a picture of the correct exhaust with the cross over pipe. The cross over appeared in '69.
Below is a picture of the '68 pipes that I prefer. I like the cleaner look and have used them on both the '69 and '71, but that is just personal preference.
Below is a picture of an after market exhaust pipe. The split in the pipe, used to allow the finned clamp to crush the pipe down onto the exhaust spigot, was not very deep. I usually will cut this back with a hack saw to allow the clamp to tighten the pipe onto the spigot better. Don't cut more than needed because you may end up with a leak.
Below is a picture of the exhaust spigot where it threads into the head. These get loose sometimes. This is especially a problem if the pipes have been run with out the "L" brackets or cross over pipe.
In order to try to tighten the spigot better, I have ground the mating edge to allow the spigot to thread further in. This is only marginally successful but is something to try.
These are pictures of the heater duct on my '70 E-Type. It mounts to the fresh air intake in the bonnet.
I am working on a '70 XKE roadster. I am trying to figure out the sequence of installation of the parts involved in securing the hood (that's top to us on this side of the pond) to the rear, at the body. I have a piece of vinyl trim that I think goes under the chrome strip that finishes it off. Strangely, it came in two pieces so I guess it has to be joined in the middle??
Here is a crude drawing of what I think is the sequence of the various pieces that go down on the tack strip.
I now realize that I did not label the tack strip but it is the "D" shaped piece that is sandwiched between the body and the vinyl finisher material.
What I have labeled "vinyl finisher material" is what goes from the tack strip to the inside of the car. What I am calling the "vinyl strip (part in question) is what I am specifically asking about. Does it go as I have in drawn? Or do I have it up-side down?
And, another question.
I assume it must go all the way to the end of the chrome strip but how do I finish it when I come to the end of the chrome? Cut it off square or try to round it off to follow the end of the chrome?
These are pictures of the choke cable routing on my '70 XKE roadster.
On the inside they fit into that metal sleeve which plugs into the pivot point. They then pass through the inner panel before passing through the outer firewall.
On the fire wall side they come through a hole in the wiper motor recess. The anchor point for the cable outer housing is the small clamps at each carb.
This is a picture of the seat back from my '70 XKE roadster.
I am working on a 1970 XKE Jaguar Series II roadster. Occasionally I run into a piece that I can't identify. Here are two pictures of a pair of what appear to be hold down clamps. Any ideas as to where they go?
Below is the location of the side stand mount on my '69 Bonneville. The distance indicated is approximate and is measured from the bottom engine mount bolt center to the side stand bolt center.
The first picture is of my '71 Bonneville. The fork caps are, I believe, original.
This picture is of my '69. The fork caps are original.
Initially I thought the '69 caps were more domed than the '71. After looking at them more carefully I am not so sure that there is much difference. Perhaps there is more of a dome on the '69 but that might also just be an illusion.
Here is a picture showing the connections of the capacitors.
This is the turn signal flasher on my '71 Bonneville. I believe it is original. The white wire goes to the ignition switch and is power. The green w/brown stripe wire goes to the turn signal switch. According to the wiring diagram the spade that the white wire attaches to should be marked with a B, and the one with the green/brown wire should be marked L and goes to the turn signal switch.
I am working on my '70 Jag, E-Type Roadster, Series II. I have this panel to install but don't seem to be able to figure out where it goes. It looks like it would have to go under the car and insulate the body from the exhaust but have not figured out where to attach it. It appears to have an asbestos insulating material attached to one side, does this go to the exhaust or to the body?
Any one with pictures please post to Jag lovers forum where I have posted this question.
Vin# location on my '71
I saved that decal as best I could.
And then reinstalled it. Don't know how important that is but just couldn't bring myself to toss it.
Front fender stay on my '69 Triumph Bonneville
Horn relay wiring for a '69 Triumph Bonneville.
My Jag has 6RA relays all over it, but they are not all the same. 33188E is a number that seems to make a difference.
Fortunately, I was able to resolder a broken wire and clean the contacts on mine which got it to work. Of course, there is no telling how long it will continue working.
This is a relay that I got from Radio Shack, it was quite inexpensive, is rated for 60amps, and is easy to wire. I'm sure that such relays are available from numerous other sources as well. It is really a better option than trying to buy an original which is hidden from view and only you will know it's there.
The relays for my Jag are "unobtainiam". I have been able to get them all working but if I have problems with them, I will open them up, gut them, and "hide" a relay like this in the original casing as they are all observable and judged.
I am working on a 1970 XKE Series II roadster with A/C and manual transmission.
Initially I thought that these brackets were related to the reaction plate. However, when I went to install that and the torsion bars I could find no place to put these. They are about 3 3/4" on the long side and about 2 3/4" on the short side. They are of pretty substantial material, approximately 3/16" thick. Hopefully some one will recognize them and point me in the right direction.
Parts diagram for 2006 Triumph Thruxton
I am working on a '69 Triumph T120 R
I replaced the thrust washer behind the clutch basket and noticed something that I had not noticed before. There seems to be nothing that centers the washer. This strikes me as odd. I compared the new one with the original and they appear to be the same so would assume that the old one was loose as well. What am I missing? Did I forget a part/have it in the wrong place?
I am working on a '69 Triumph T120. Does this little spring go against the drive gear for the tach or under the drive gear or did I get it mislabeled and should it go behind the intake cam breather valve? I will have to split the cases again to test fit it there, hopefully some one will know and save me from that annoying extra step.
I bought a kick start gear segment to replace the one on my '69 T120. The e-bay replacement that came seems to be flipped opposite mine. Does anyone know which way is correct? Mine has always taken spells when it would seem to get the teeth of the gears stuck on each other just as I began the downward stroke, any chance mine was backwards and this could explain it?
These are pictures of the seat of my '71 Triumph Bonneville. They are shown as examples of the hinges that came on it.
These are pictures of the fuel taps and fuel tubes on my '71 with the UK tank. As you can see the fuel tubes are sitting on the carb rubbers. Is there a solution other than raising the tank with padding on top of the mounting rubbers?
Here are before and after pictures of the coil wiring on my '71.
These are pictures of the way the front brake cable is assembled on the wheel of my '71
The rear busing looks like this and must be inserted into the lever so that that the cable can be slipped through it. I've shown it here away from the lever so that it is more visible.
The hole that goes through it is large enough part way through so that it can slide up on the middle step of the cable. It then steps down small enough that the cable housing cannot go through but the end step can.
The front busing looks like this. You extend the cable past the lever, then raise it up so that it is aligned with the hole for the bushing. Then you push the bushing through the hole in the lever and allow the cable end to seat into the hole in the bushing.
The bushing is slotted so that the cable will not interfere when it is pushed into the hole in the lever.
And then when the spring spreads the two levers apart the end of the cable inner shaft nests into the hole in the front side of the bush.
This is what the whole thing looks like assembled but of course the levers are not included so that you can see better.
These are pictures of the spring on the rear brake of my '71.
This is a shot of the deep socket on the nut that holds the drive sprocket to high gear. underneath you can see the sock that I fed onto the sprocket just to keep the sprocket and high gear from spinning. The transmission is in neutral so the only gear effected is high gear. It doesn't have to be held tightly, the mass of the sprocket and gear will do most of the work when using an impact wrench. Of course you have to throttle the gun down a little to keep it from getting away from you.
This is how the washer between the drive sprocket and the rotor came off my '71 T120. The photo is a little fuzzy but the bevel is to the outside, that is toward the rotor.
I am working on my'71 Triumph T120. I am assembling the transmission and am not sure which way the flat on the shifter fork shaft goes, to the sprocket side/left side or the shift lever/right side. The manual says that the shouldered end goes in first (to the left). My '69 manual says the same thing and the picture in both manuals shows the same thing but I have no shoulder, just the flat.
I am working on my '71 Triumph T120. I have forgotten which way the washer in this picture goes.
I am trying to remove this washer and the accompanying seal. I have tried to drive it out from the other side but after a few sharp whacks it hasn't budged so I am wondering if there is something I am missing.
This is a picture of the alternator that I have. Does it have the correct field plug for a '70 E-Type OTS with A/C. If not can you tell me what the appropriate connections for my vehicle would look like? What vehicle would this alternator be appropriate for?
These are pictures of the oil filter housing on the Jag I'm restoring.
The original finish was a hammertone and I was lucky enough to find this from RustOleum. In order to get the correct shade I used two colors that I alternately/simultaneously sprayed until I got what I was looking for as seen in the second picture. For more on the Jag project click here
Jag Main Page.
In May of 2006,I made a trip to the show in St. Augustine. It's about a two hour ride there, four hours round trip. When I returned I noticed that the tank was vibrating a lot more than normal. When I took it off to see what was going on, this is what I found. What would be called a "captive" nut if it were a standard nut had pulled out of the tank.
Additionally, the rear mount had broken as well.
I did not own a MIG welder at that point so I reasoned that if I could save the paint it would partly pay for one. Any guy can appreciate the logic in that, right?
All looked like it was going well.
Same thing for the rear mount. That's a magnet holding the mount in place by the way.
Then I did one of those really stupid things that I sometimes do. I grabbed the bolt that I had screwed into the other mount to use as a ground and picked up the tank. Being full of water it was quite heavy. Well, perhaps it would have broken later anyway. At least that's what I kept telling myself.
Mannn, what a bunch of gobbledy gook.
Well, it looked better after grinding and painting. You can see that I lost more paint on this one than the first.
Well, that's my tale of woe. Sooner or later the tank will have to be repainted. When that happens I will revisit this. For now, I'm just not riding as far as I was.
August 25, 2006
The carbs on my '69 Triumph Bonneville had become so grungy and stained that I was no longer able to clean them. The grey pot metal was now an ugly grey/green/yellow color that just could not be made to look new again.
This is what I came up with. I had hoped for something simpler and easier but it just was not to be.
I disassembled the carbs and bead blasted the parts.
Next I dipped the parts in a 50% mix of Muriatic acid and distilled water for 5-10 seconds. The pot metal came out pretty nice after the bead blasting but the acid dip really made them "pop".
I was afraid of corrosion from the acid dip and wanted to more closely match the original color and tone so next I gave them a very light zinc plate. After plating I dressed the individual pieces with a mild abrasive (kitchen cleaner) until I had what seemed like the right shade and reassembled.
Now, about those manifolds...
This is for the ladies in the family.